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Alaska Raw, Part 7: The geometry of hunting in high wind

Previously, Bob Sr. was getting close to realizing his dream of a big bull caribou, guided by his son. For the first time the men had moved up on a group of several, selected one, and took the first shot which apparently misses.  True to form, the difficult Alaska weather can have unpredictable effects. Here, the wind makes all the difference, again.

By BOB LACHER

I thought perhaps my dad had hit a lung and the beast would bleed out and topple over shortly. I watched in the glasses for blood. Nothing. It was a clean miss…and my father is a good shot.

This surprised me. He chambered another, made doubly sure of his well cradled aim… and sent the 180 grain .300 Win Mag bullet to flight. Nothing was falling. We were both stumped.

He racked up another. My father had been aiming for  a neck shot, the same shot he always takes on big game. About this time we both thought for a minute about how hard the wind was blowing in a direct cross, still 35 to 45.

We both had an “ah ha” moment and talked about the conditions, deciding to put the crosshairs on the absolute leading edge of its chest hoping the wind would carry the round back 16 inches and punch the lungs, a bigger target. He let fly round number three. The bull flinched visibly through my glasses but looked generally unruffled.

On a hunch I thought it may have been a gut shot. Maybe the wind and the lead required was much greater than we had thought, and the bullet pushed all the way back past the lungs. It had. After some rapid strategizing we both agreed that maybe aiming a foot in front of the animal would be just the thing.

But the wind was gusting and very hard to gauge. By this time most of the cows and the smaller bulls were dashing around and smelling trouble, looking for an exit but they had no idea where the shots were coming from. My heart was racing and I was thinking for sure we were going to fuck this up.

The bull stood fast, stunned, with a gut shot stomach. Dad took careful aim and sent round number four down the barrel. In the glasses I saw the big bull finally sacked to the dirt with a little puff of red mist coiling above its back and then settling over it. It was a lung shot, catching just a little shoulder on the far side, blowing out a bit of bone which provided more knockdown shock than pure lung would.

Oddly enough, as much as we hunt, neither my father nor I had ever tried to work a bullet to its mark in that heavy of a direct crosswind. The numbers were off our mental charts. We may take crosswind or quartering wind shots in 10 or 15 mph autumn breezes out shooting at moose or sheep…sure. But nothing that ever required this geometry. I looked over and saw my father begin to breathe again.

He had been more and more pissed off with each squeeze of the trigger, cursing his marksmanship and being way too hard on himself. Getting repeatedly horse kicked by the big gun did him no good either, his bones being a little less resilient than at a younger time. It was a great father-son moment, rich in memories that will be with me long after he is gone.

After the congratulatory exchanges the three of us hustled over to see just how nice the bull was. We would perform the “Ground Check,” a term we try to utter without the smug chuckle of success, but can’t seem to manage without the gloating. The cameras came out, as did the ear to ear smiles. Everyone busted their best antler poses several times and then a few extra. We laid down some proofs of finally being in control of something in this world, which is especially rewarding since one usually has so little control of anything.

Knives followed the cameras, as they always do. The smell of blood soon hit our nostrils, a universal signal to the primal synapses of hunters that it was time to let down, time to come off high alert, time to allow the big fat pulse in your neck to tuck itself back into your chest. It’s the smell of success, and if there were a ceremonial chant or song or dance to be laid down, or a shaman to summon for blessings, now would be the time to conjure whatever spirits made such bounty possible and give thanks to the Meat God.

One caribou was enough for us even though we had tags for three. Our cargo load was bloated as it was, given how much extra support gear and fuel we like to have along when going to high risk, far off areas like Unimak.  One of us also needs to save room for a very large walrus head that weighed as much as a hind quarter of caribou. The next morning we broke down camp and piled both birds chock full of gear, meat and antlers.

Unimak is not a place to lounge around after you get what you came for.  I had briefly thought about hiking into a hot springs that was several miles to the south of our camp, and there was also an incredible waterfall close by that needed further exploration from the ground, but beating a path ahead of the next weather front trumped all of that.

To the northeast the weather looked manageable and we set off for Cold Bay to refuel and do some flight planning for home. We made the 40 minute flight to Cold Bay with the gorgeous green rolling hills and plains of Unimak fading behind us. We regretted every minute of retreat. I wondered if I would ever see such a unique landscape again.

With the fueling done and our wallets thinned we pointed back up the beach, plugging away low and slow for two hundred miles back to where the walrus head was stashed. As we approached the GPS coordinate, we sized up the wind direction and made a couple of low passes over the windswept tire marks we had left there just a few days before.

Getting the airplanes down this time was simple. Everyone was paying sharp attention. We located the stashed walrus head and carefully wrapped and double wrapped it in large garbage bags to try to seal in the stench.

I moved some gear behind my seat and made a spot for the one hundred plus pound head and tusks and we loaded and re-launched. It was afternoon and we had enough time to make it back home, but it would be getting dark toward the end. We wanted to clear the mountain passes with some light in case the ceilings were low or it was raining or snowing in the mountains.

On the way back I was really hoping to find another walrus. The wind had been blowing onshore for several days making the chances much better. Anything dead and floating comes ashore eventually. Another hour and another 80 miles up the coast I spotted a big brown lump grounded just above the receding tide.

As our aircrafts approached closer I could see in the distance something was moving in the mass. It was a walrus alright, with one long tusk intact and the other a broken off stump just barely showing color.

The walrus was dead…the movement among the mass was a big brown bear. I could see the bear clearly now, its face a bloody mess all the way back to its neck. It was busy eating its way past the front flipper and into the shoulder of the walrus. I slowed the airplane up as I went past thinking for sure the bear would move off.

Frank and my father were in contact by radio and pulled up to a higher altitude and began circling. They were not keen on landing given the fading light and wanted to keep moving. We talked back and forth a bit about letting the bear have this one and the shortness of time.

Just about convinced, I thought once more about how seldom this sort of opportunity presents itself and decided to take a closer look. Frank decided the opposite and made a few more circles above, agreeing to wait and see if I got the plane down OK and what the bear was going to do.

The scene had all the makings of a Quentin Tarantino slasher movie so it was hard to resist watching from above.

On Sunday, Part 8, and final thoughts from the author.

Alaska Raw, Part 4: A night in the Cold Bay ‘hotel’, and beach landing in a howling gale

[Read: Part 4: Beach landing in a howling gale]

[Read: Part 3: Bent wing and dead walrus on the beach]

[Read: Part 2: No way to land an airplane]

[Read Chapter 1, Part 1: A caribou hunt with my father, Unimak Island, 2004]

Investigators: Schilmiller offered $9 million for murder of Cynthia Hoffman

An Anchorage grand jury indicted 21-year-old Darin Schilmiller of Indiana, 18-year-old Denali Brehmer, 16-year-old Kayden McIntosh, 19-year-old Caleb Leyland, and two minors, all of Anchorage, for Murder in the First Degree, Conspiracy to Commit Murder in the First Degree, and two counts of Murder in the Second Degree in the execution killing of Cynthia Hoffman.

Hoffman was shot in the back of the head on June 2 at Thunderbird Falls in Chugiak. Brehmer and McIntosh drove the developmentally disabled teen to Thunderbird Falls where McIntosh allegedly shot her and dumped her body in the Eklutna River.

Schilmiller and Brehmer were indicted on a count of Solicitation to Commit Murder in the First Degree. Brehmer was indicted on a count of Tampering with Physical Evidence and McIntosh was indicted on four counts of Tampering with Physical Evidence.

The bail memorandum alleges the murder occurred after Schilmiller offered to pay Brehmer $9 million or more to murder Hoffman, and to send him videos and/or photographs of the murder.

Brehmer is accused of recruiting the others to assist in the planning and/or execution of the murder. In exchange, all of them would receive a significant sum of money for their part in carrying out the plan.

If convicted at trial, the defendants face up to 99 years in prison for each of the murder charges, the conspiracy to commit murder charge, and the solicitation to commit murder charge. In addition, Brehmer and McIntosh face up to five years imprisonment for each of the tampering with physical evidence charges.

Schilmiller, of New Salisbury, Indiana, is currently in the custody of the Federal Bureau of Investigation but the State of Alaska has issued a warrant for his arrest and he will be extradited to Alaska to face the charges.

Brehmer, McIntosh, and Leyland are in the custody of the Department of Corrections and will be arraigned Tuesday, June 18, 2019 at 1:45 p.m. in superior court.

The two minors are in custody at McLaughlin Youth Center, with no information released.

[Read: Who is Darin Schilmiller and why is he part of this murder investigation?]

AK Supreme Court sides with sex offenders

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STATE’S SEX OFFENDER REGISTRY LAW UNCONSTITUTIONAL

The Alaska Supreme Court on Friday ruled that Alaska’s sex offender registry law violates the constitutional right of due process for at least some offenders.

The case originated when a “John Doe” moved to Alaska from Virginia in 2003, where he was a registered sex offender for a crime committed in 2000. He was notified by law enforcement that he would need to register in Alaska, and he did so for a couple of years, and then stopped registering. He was arrested for failing to register and fought it in court.

Mr. Doe said that because his crime was committed in another state, Alaska doesn’t have jurisdiction to enact punitive legal actions against him, and that the sex offender registry is a punitive law.

The Supreme Court voted 3-2 that the Alaska Sex Offender Registry Act is too broad, and also that sex offenders must be given the opportunity to demonstrate that they are not dangerous.

The 49-page opinion can be found here:

Alaska Supreme Court sex offender decision

 

State wins victory on Tongass road lawsuit

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FOREST SERVICE CAN’T STOP TRANSPORTATION PLAN

The State of Alaska has won in a lawsuit against the U.S. Forest Service, affecting Southeast Alaska roads across the Tongass National Forest.

The decision by U.S. District Court Judge Ralph Beistline allows the State of Alaska to implement the Southeast Transportation Plan by constructing roads on the 20 easements the State received under Congressman Don Young’s “Safe, Accountable, Flexible, Efficient Transportation Equity Act: A Legacy for Users (SAFETY-LU),” which was signed into law in 2005 by President George W. Bush.

The judge declared that the Roadless Rule is not applicable to infrastructure development located in the State’s “4407” easement corridors.

Judge Beistline’s order preserves the property rights held by the State of Alaska in easements created through a land exchange ratified by Congress.

“This decision is a great win for the State and for Southeast Alaska in particular,” said Attorney General Kevin Clarkson. “This allows the State to connect the communities of Southeast Alaska without unnecessary Forest Service restrictions such as the Roadless Rule.”

The court clarified that the Forest Service has no legal authority to withhold or deny the State’s request for an easement to accommodate a transportation or utility project under the Section 4407 easements, according to the Alaska Department of Law.

This dispute stemmed from a Forest Service decision in 2014 that changed its interpretation of Section 4407 and proceeded to withhold easements for road construction that was part of the Southeast Alaska Transportation Plan.

This led to significant delays, as the State Department of Transportation and Public Facilities was prevented from constructing and operating roads across federal lands. Most of Southeast Alaska is federal forest land and the State had been progressing on an ambitious plan to connect more communities.

Alaska’s congressional delegation passed a clarifying amendment to Section 4407 in 2015, intending to remove all obstacles being raised by the Forest Service and have the easements issued.

After the 2015 amendment, all pending easements were released by the Forest Service except the easement for the Shelter Cove Road project in Ketchikan. The State sued.

The State and federal governments’ easement exchange in 2005 was designed to preserve the State’s infrastructure development rights, if the Roadless Rule were to become applicable to the Tongass National Forest, by establishing easements for transportation and utility corridors to connect the communities of Southeast Alaska.

In exchange, the Forest Service received easements over state-owned tidelands for hundreds of federal-owned facilities—docks, floats, boat ramps, breakwaters, and log transfer facilities.

Judge Beistline’s final order on summary judgment giving the State full relief on its four requests for declaratory judgment can be found here:

130. Order on Summary Judgment

MRAK Almanac: Wasilla air show; GCI’s best dad jokes

The MRAK Almanac is your place for political, cultural, and civic events, events where you’ll meet political leaders or, if you are interested in getting to know your state, these are great places to meet conservative- and moderate-leaning Alaskans.

The winner of the GCI Dad joke contest: “Today, my son asked ‘Can I have a book mark?’ and I burst into tears. 11 years old and he still doesn’t know my name is Brian.”

We were partial to this one … (see the rest of the groaners at this link):


ALASKA DAYLIGHT REPORT – 8 DAYS UNTIL SUMMER SOLSTICE:

Friday, Juneau will receive 18 hours 13 minutes of daylight.

Anchorage is set to get 19 hours 17 minutes of sunshine.

Fairbanks will get an amazing 21 hours 39 minutes.

Residents of Utqiagvik, Alaska’s northernmost town, will not see the sun set until August 2.

6/13-6/16: 25th Annual Last Frontier H.O.G. Rally in Wasilla. Check in at Denali Harley-Davidson. Registration required, visit Facebook link here.

6/14: Gov. Mike Dunleavy will hold a press conference at Wasilla Middle School to discuss the upcoming special session of the Alaska Legislature. Set to begin at 10 am.

6/14: It’s been 150 days since the Alaska Legislature gaveled in; still no Permanent Fund dividend and no fund source identified for the capital budget.

6/14: The Republican Women of Fairbanks will hold their annual Summer Salad Spectacular at the home of Linda Anderson, 3165 Riverview Drive, at 5:30 pm. To attend, please bring a $25 donation and a salad or appetizer to share. For more information: 474-9081.

6/14: Know someone who’s going to UAF? New Admit Day will begin at 10 am. Check in at the Wood Center. More details here.

6/14: Interior Alaska GOP luncheon at Denny’s in Fairbanks. The guest this week will be Jo Kuchle of the Golden Heart Community Foundation. All are invited to attend.

6/14: Wasilla Music in the Park Concert at 6 pm in Wonderland Park. Admission is free, and there will be live music, food trucks, and many interesting vendors.

6/14: The Anchorage Salmon Derby begins, running until June 23. This annual classic is one of America’s only urban fishing competitions, and there are thousands of dollars of prizes available to the anglers who reel in the biggest King Salmon from Ship Creek. Make sure you pick up a free derby ticket before you wet a line! Visit this link for more details.

6/14: The Wasilla branch of Northrim Bank will host an ice cream social from noon to 4 pm to say thanks to their clients.

6/14-6/15: Need to clear out your clutter? Community Garage Sale at the Tanana Valley Fairgrounds in Fairbanks. The price is $25 for a 10×10 space with a table. Begins at 1 pm Friday and at 9 am Saturday. Call 907-452-3750 to purchase a spot.

6/15: 18th annual Alaska 4×4 Meet and Greet at the Wasilla Transportation Museum. There will be obstacle courses, kids’ games, and prizes, and over eight hundred Alaskan off-road enthusiasts. Tickets are $20, Facebook link here.

6/15: Celebration of Life for former DOT Commissioner and Lieutenant Colonel Joe Perkins. Joe Perkins was a longtime Alaska resident, and was the source of much growth and leadership in the Alaska infrastructure industry. The event will be held at the Alaska Zoo at 3 pm.

6/15: 10th annual Harley-Davidson Ride for Hope in Anchorage. All proceeds will go towards life-affirming pregnancy programs available to men and women in Anchorage. The ride will begin at 8:30 am, and will end in the small community of Hope, on the other side of the Turnagain Arm. To register and learn more, visit here.

6/15: Anchorage Walk to Defeat ALS. Begins at 11 am at Margaret Sullivan Park on 15th Ave. Check in is at 10 am. Come support a good cause, further information here.

6/15: 10th annual Thunder Valley Flag Drags Car Show in Palmer at the Alaska Raceway Park. Come just to enjoy the cars, or bring your own (’74 or older) hot rod. Starts at noon, admission is $10 for adults and $5 for seniors and military members.

6/15: Military Appreciation Day at Pioneer Park in Fairbanks. Free hot dogs and drinks will be provided to military members and their families from noon to 2 pm. There will also be face painting and fun for the kids.

6/16: Father’s Day. Give dad a call. Some dad.

6/16: Bailey’s Superstore Father’s Day Car Show in Fairbanks. Set to run from noon to 4 pm. There will be a raffle and activities for the whole family. For more information and to register, visit this link.

6/14-6/16: The annual Wings Over Wasilla Fly-In and Air Show will take place at the Wasilla airport. A welcome reception will take place at the Menard Center on Friday evening. Shuttles will be available all weekend from the Menard Center to the airport. Come witness traditional events such as the short take off, landing, and many interesting demonstrations. See the full schedule here.

6/14-6/16: Chickenstock Music Festival in the small Taylor Highway town of Chicken. Tickets for this festival have now sold out, but those interested in joining the waitlist. may visit the festival’s Facebook page here.

6/17: The Alaska Department of Fish and Game announced Wednesday evening that the Copper River personal use dipnetting fishery will be open for a 168-hour period from Monday June 17 through Sunday June 23. This unique fishery is open only to Alaska residents, and the annual limit is 25 salmon for the head of household and 10 salmon for each dependent of the permit holder. Read more here.

Alaska History Archive:

June 14, 1946: Happy 73rd birthday to President Donald Trump. President Trump will be celebrating the occasion with his family, location not yet disclosed. Donald Trump is the oldest president in United States history, having entered office at seventy years old. Ronald Reagan was sixty-nine when he took the oath of office in 1981.

June 14, 1982: The very first Permanent Fund Dividend checks were distributed to Alaskans—the payout was $1000 per resident.  The year prior, a plan to distribute dividends based on years of residency, in which each year of Alaska residency up to twenty years would carry $50, was struck down by the U.S. Supreme Court. As a result, all residents became entitled to an equal PFD check.

Repeat offender Della Northway caught again

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Della Northway, who was arrested in 2018 after fleeing police, is back in custody after she was found in a stolen 2001 white Chevy Suburban on June 12.

An Anchorage police officer spotted the vehicle in the area of 20th Avenue and Lake Otis Parkway, and ran the plates, discovering the SUV had been stolen the night before from a Northwood Drive address.

When the officer attempted to stop the Chevy at 16th Court and Rosemary Street, Northway immediately sped the vehicle backward, away from the patrol car, and turned sharply onto the front yard of a home, striking a nearby car in the process.

The officer tried to use his vehicle to block the Chevy, but Northway ran into the police vehicle twice as she tried to push the squad car out of the way and flee.

It got worse. Another officer arrived, and blocked in the Chevy. Northway crawled out of the passenger side of the Chevy and took off running, police in pursuit. Officers took her to the ground and handcuffed her while she continued to resist.

A search of the Chevy revealed a stolen handgun and two ammo magazines. The gun had been reported stolen on May 21 by an Uber driver, who reported that one of his passengers had stolen it from underneath the driver’s seat while he was out of the car and re-arranging items in the vehicle’s trunk.

The Uber passenger was not one of the two people caught in the stolen Suburban.

After being transported to Anchorage Jail, Northway was discovered to have cocaine on her. She was charged with Vehicle Theft I, Theft II, Criminal Mischief III, Misconduct Involving a Weapon III – Felon in Possession, Fail to Stop, and Misconduct Involving a Controlled Substance III.

In 2018, Northway was a passenger in a stolen vehicle that police were trying to stop near Lake Otis Parkway. The driver and two passengers, including Northway, fled on foot, running through residential areas and jumping over fences.

Officers caught Northway running near 80th Even and Alpine View Circle. She lied and provided them with a false name, but police managed to determine her true identity and that she was a probation absconder on adult supervision for Theft 2 and had an outstanding warrant for probation violation.

Legislative leadership polling lawmakers on location of special session

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Maybe the next special session won’t be in Wasilla after all.

Must Read Alaska has learned that legislative leaders in the House and Senate are polling members to determine whether they want to hold a special session in Wasilla, as has been called for by Gov. Michael Dunleavy by proclamation Or maybe they’ll just call their own special session in advance of July 8.

If they can get 40 votes between the House and Senate, they could move it to Anchorage or reconvene the special session in Juneau, where nearly all of them can continue to receive up to $285 a day in per diem.

House and Senate Majorities gaveled out of the first special session today, and Gov. Michael Dunleavy called them into a second special session to deal with the Permanent Fund dividend, which they have not been able to decide on in the 149 days they have been in session and special session.

One of the options on the table is to call themselves into special session preemptively, before the governor’s chosen date of July 8.

In 2015, the Alaska Legislature moved its business to Anchorage after having been called into special session in Juneau by Gov. Bill Walker.

At the time, the Legislature’s own attorney said that the move could be unconstitutional. The Walker Administration did not challenge the constitutionality of the maneuver, however.

Legislature approves paying per diem for special session – retroactively

“I move that Legislative Council authorize per diem payments retroactive to May 16, 1019, for the days in which members were physically present in Juneau for the first special session of the 31st Alaska State Legislature.” — Rep. Louise Stutes, making a motion to Legislative Council.

And so, the Alaska Legislature has decided to pay itself retroactively for the time it has spent over the past 30 days in Juneau.

As it was explained by a Megan Wallace, director of Legal Services, Alaska Statute says that legislators are not entitled to per diem payments after the 121st day until the first day that the Legislature passes a fully funded operating budget.

“It does not prevent this body from taking action to provide retroactive payments. The language says it is not to be paid until after the budget is passed,” Wallace explained. Wiggle room, in other words.

Rep. Tammie Wilson said she could not support it: “I know what the intent of the legislation was…It not ambiguous in my mind.”

Sen. Bert Stedman argued that many younger members of the Legislature have families and can’t afford to cover the costs of staying in Juneau.

All members voted in favor of it except Rep. Wilson of North Pole and Rep. DeLena Johnson of Palmer.

One insider in the Capitol observed that the Legislature just awarded itself between $6,000 and $9,000 per diem but a majority of them voted against a full statutorily determined Permanent Fund dividend of $3,000 for Alaskans.

Per diem is calculated differently at different times of year. The Legislature uses the federal per diem rate, which is higher between May and October in Juneau.

Alaska Raw, Part 6: We close the distance on the giant caribou bull

In the previous episode, the three men had survived a violent and unexpected windstorm that threatened their venture.  They just finished relocating their airplanes and camp to what appeared to be a safer, more sheltered area.  They are  surrounded by distant groups of caribou and are finally in a position to find a big bull for Bob Lacher’s father, Bob Sr.

By BOB LACHER

The winds had softened to 20 with just occasional and short lived spikes. We welcomed the dramatic change. Sun was showing in fits and starts for the first time of the entire trip, stabbing columns of light onto the darkly greened hills in the distance, shifting, disappearing and recasting through tight holes in the low clouds. The weather was better but reminding us constantly of how very unsettled Aleutian weather is in general.

Good spirits were pushing aside the stress of the last 24 hours spent on a high wire. Banter flowed easily without the need to out-yell the wind with a worn out throat during the simplest of exchanges. Stories emerged about who thought this or that about the previous day’s eroding conditions, about contingency plans that were never shared, let alone put to a vote, about the ferocity of this or that series of gusts, about living the oppressive thrill throughout the night, one hour at a time, caged like an animal.

Gear sorting and the pitching of camp pattered along unhurried, rhythmically, in perfect step to our relaxed surroundings, in a shared solitude, in communion with everything and nothing at all, taking more time than any task needed, and much more than that if you wanted it to, or if the lightweight tool or toy in your hand held a particular interest for you just then, and you were deciding if it would be useful enough to make the cut…and actually make it into your day pack that would sustain next day’s hunt, stalk and kill.

Fattened up by a good meal and in shrinking evening light we walked to some higher points within a hundred yards of camp to do some glassing. Caribou were in every quadrant radiating out from our stoop.

We saw lots of cows grazing and cavorting with medium size bulls, other bulls with horns mated up, in slow motion pushing contests that were establishing not much of anything by way of dominance as far as I could tell. It appeared far too casual to be definitive, like play wresting amongst best friends. We also saw a small group of cows with one real champ of a bull to our southwest, out about half a mile.

We watched it for as long as we could, until our eyes watered so heavily and continually from the wind that it was wearing to continually clear them.

The group had four or five smaller bulls with it but the dominant bull was for sure the ball smasher of this harem. Double shovels, large bases, bejeweled with thick tines in quantity like overdone Christmas tree decorations. In the morning, providing the group had not moved very far, we’d go after that one. We retreated to camp.

Everyone was excited about our good fortune and hopeful that the weather would hold and allow a successful hunt. After not getting any rest during the gale the night before, sleep came easily. I had hardly crawled in my bag and a symphony of snoring rose from Frank and my father.

Normally my strategy is to beat the snorers to sleep. Even the jowl flogging and tongue snagging noises were nothing compared to the wind racket that had worn me so thin the night before, so falling asleep was a snap.

Closing my eyes, I allowed myself a final mental walk- through of how in the morning we would move up on that herd bull with, unfortunately, zero cover between us and them, and give the big daddy a one-way ticket to Wasilla.  I was halfway through the perfect stalk, making my way in a super-stealthy commando belly crawl when my lights blinkered out.

On the Aleutians one thing is certain; there is zero possibility of waking up to the sound of birds tweeting, say, or a bubbling brook. No. It is always the ever present slapping of tent fabric, the invisible forces tearing at the small structure, reporting to your ears as though surrounded  by an army of antagonists snapping wet towels about your head.

And so we rose, rubbed our gritty eyes clear, and stretched and yawned our way into another day of 35 to 40 mph wind. Of course all anyone was thinking about was if the herd had moved, or how far.

Skipping even the morning coffee, we layered up and headed for the close high ground just a hundred yards from the tent and then got on the field glasses to try to find them. The group we wanted had moved, but just rotated around our camp about 90 degrees, and we were still quite close, about half a mile, and at a direct crosswind to them. They were relaxed and grazing.

Given how relaxed these caribou were, I found it odd that through the night, nearly every other small group and even stragglers had migrated outward from our position, as though our landing and camping registered with nearly all the caribou, as though we were the Big Bang and they were planets and stars accelerating ever so slowly away from our epicenter. Every group except the one we wanted was now two to three miles out. It was a lucky break. My father would hold up better with a shorter stalk.

Dad can walk just fine for miles under normal conditions. But this tundra looked like a field of four foot beach balls crammed together with a thin green blanket draped loosely over them. It was a brutal up and down “high stepping” and the surface itself was mushy and grossly uneven underfoot.

Difficult when sober but impossible after three beers describes it pretty well. We hung tight to the ground in labored crouches and closed the distance to the group. The wind was nearly a direct cross, howling and masking any amount of noise we could possibly make. The only cover we had was the lumpy terrain.

When the three of us got within 175 yards there was a final depression allowing slightly more cover before it flattened out to an open plain of sand and low grasses that the group of caribou was cavorting and grazing in. Up closer the big bull looked to be all we’d thought it was as we made a final appraisal. My father wasted no time getting to prone and building a rest out of my rucksack full of game bags.

Once a couple of cows moved out from in front of the bull my father had a steady rest and a clear shot and so he aimed carefully, took a deep breath…and let one fly. The crack from the gun barrel disrupted the relative quiet but the noise was quickly swept away by the crosswind. Nothing at all happened. Some nervous glances in about every direction came from the several caribou.

They were now alert…

The series continues on June 15

Alaska Raw, Part 4: A night in the Cold Bay ‘hotel’, and beach landing in a howling gale

 

Alaska Raw, Part 4: A night in the Cold Bay ‘hotel’, and beach landing in a howling gale

[Read: Part 3: Bent wing and dead walrus on the beach]

[Read: Part 2: No way to land an airplane]

[Read Chapter 1, Part 1: A caribou hunt with my father, Unimak Island, 2004]