Tlingit history, culture thrive as Hoonah expands as destination - Must Read Alaska
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Monday, September 23, 2019
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Tlingit history, culture thrive as Hoonah expands as destination

By WIN GRUENING
SENIOR CONTRIBUTOR

“Yesterday brought word that the Hoonah Packing Company at Hoonah packed 115,000 cases of fish.”

– Alaska Daily Empire, August 15, 1918

That brief 100-year-old news note about an Alaska salmon cannery hardly begins to tell the story of the importance of fishing and its relationship to the community of Hoonah.

As told in James Mackovjak’s local history of commercial seine fishing, Hoonah’s “Million Dollar Fleet”salmon were more than the backbone of the economy. Fishing was an integral component of the culture that developed in this remote but rich region. Salmon provided nourishment and income and were the subject of much artwork. Fishing was a way of life.

Today, the history of that cannery and the culture of the people who made it successful are on full display.

The Huna Totem Corporation recently held a ground-breaking ceremony for a second cruise ship dock near the original cannery location at Icy Strait Point, the only privately-owned cruise port in Alaska. Icy Strait Point (ISP) and its location at Hoonah share a very strong and long connection with the Tlingit people that make it one of the most unique cruise destinations in North America.

Russell Dick, President and CEO, spoke at the ceremony that included a traditional Native blessing of the land. He stressed the Corporation’s commitment to “respecting the land” as part of their three pillars of leadership, “Value, Respect, and Community”.

Icy Strait Point includes, as its centerpiece, the carefully restored 100-year old cannery and cookhouse, now repurposed into a museum, restaurant, and shops.  At the dock, greeters in Tlingit regalia welcome visitors. Nature trails, adventure tours, and Native storytellers all incorporate a glimpse into Huna Tlingit history and culture.

Huna Totem Corporation (HTC), a for-profit Alaska Native corporation, opened ISP for operation in May 2004.  The first year, ISP saw the arrival of 32 ships carrying 55,000 passengers – using tenders to bring them ashore.  As cruise visits grew, operations and visitor attractions expanded. In 2016, a 400-foot cruise ship dock was added.  In 2019, the town of Hoonah and its 760 residents expect to host 138 ships carrying over 250,000 cruise visitors.  The proposed new dock, a collaboration between ISP and Norwegian Cruise Lines, will allow even further expansion.

The community of Hoonah, a largely Tlingit community on Chichagof Island, is located 30 miles west of Juneau.  Well over 250 years ago, the Huna Tlingit people settled there after migrating from Glacier Bay – a place where they had lived for thousands of years.

In 1912, the Hoonah Packing Company built the first cannery in the area which today is Icy Strait Point. Ownership traded hands several times before the Icy Strait Salmon Company purchased the property in 1932. The cannery played a key role in the community throughout its history.

Battling rapidly changing weather, notoriously tricky tidal currents, and even icebergs, Hoonah seine fishermen were renowned for catching salmon in “the passes” that connect Icy Strait and Cross Sound.

The salmon seine fishery in Icy Strait lasted only a half century, barely two generations – and the last year of operation for the Hoonah cannery was 1953.

Despite the increase of cruise visitors, the village of Hoonah remains largely unchanged.  ISP’s operation remains geographically separated from town, and the majority of visitors explore the expanded cannery site or embark on various guided tours.

Yet, the economic benefits to local residents are substantial.  Over 80 percent of ISP’s workforce, which is now approaching 200 people, are Hoonah residents.  Profits from the ISP operation support substantial dividends for HTC shareholders and fund activities helping to preserve Tlingit history and culture.

ISP and the community of Hoonah have worked together cooperatively.  The goal remains for development to provide maximum economic benefits to residents and shareholders while mitigating any impacts of visitors.  This has been accomplished through the careful design and location of docks, transportation points, employee service areas, as well as the timing and method of handling visitor flows.

Hoonah’s new tourism economy provides sustenance and avenues for artistic expression – just like salmon always have.  As a successful collaboration of industry and traditional Native culture, it presages an enriching future for generations to come.

Win Gruening retired as the senior vice president in charge of business banking for Key Bank in 2012. He was born and raised in Juneau and graduated from the U.S. Air Force Academy in 1970. He is active in community affairs as a 30-plus year member of Juneau Downtown Rotary Club and has been involved in various local and statewide organizations.

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Suzanne Downing had careers in business and journalism before serving as the Director of Faith and Community-based Initiatives for Florida Gov. Jeb Bush and returning to Alaska to serve as speechwriter for Gov. Sean Parnell. Born on the Oregon coast, she moved to Alaska in 1969.

Latest comments

  • Hoonah has always been smart!

  • While recent cruise ships have helped anchor Hoonah’s economy, many in the community are very concerned about their village’s culture getting overrun with the addition of a second big ship dock.

    Community capacity is the greatest concern as larger and larger ships disgorge more and more visitors into little SE towns.

    Population 32,000Juneau absorbs as many as 20,000 visitors a day. More than half our population. Tiny 750 resident Hoonah has to absorb 2-4 times it’s population each time a ship or two are in port.

    While some money might stick to Hoonah, as any Juneauite knows, cruise ships hate leaving any money on the table and will make sure as much as possible benefits their bottom line first and foremost-regardless of negative impacts on their host community.

    Will Hoonah become the next tour ship theme park caricature of itself- redolent in seasonal Columbia Emeralds and Tanzanite shops-like Skagway, Juneau and Ketchikan?

    Sadly, probably.

    • Icy Strait Point and the City of Hoonah take great pride in our community. Sometimes balance is not easy. However, we have the advantage of being a follower. We are learning from our surrounding Alaskan communities who historically led in welcoming cruise ship travelers.

      As we grow together with our community, we cherish our rich heritage. Our daily goal is to always lead by building value and respect through culture for our community. This means putting our community and Alaska first. At Icy Strait Point, along with the high percentage of Hoonah-base employees, more than 60% are Tlingit shareholders of Huna Totem, our parent corporation. Icy Strait Point continues to create a sustainable model with a bright future for generations to come.

      Icy Strait Point also puts Alaska first in retail. We don’t sell penguins. As a guiding principle, we only allow Alaskan owned retailers to operate on site. As we grow, we are developing new retail outlets for native art and curating a “Made in Hoonah” marketplace.

      As we consider our future plans, we look to the land to provide guidance for our development. Icy Strait Point studied the topographic data to scientifically see where best to place a second dock and to design buildings which fit into the landscape and not disrupt nature and its natural beauty. We are staying true to our “no visible buses” from our pristine shoreline rule. With more than 24,000 acres, this proven design method allows us to seamlessly guide our guests from open to closed spaces where they can discover their own piece of Alaska.

      We hope all will come to see how Icy Strait Point takes seriously our authentic Alaskan motto to heart. On June 8, 2019, we are hosting our first Neighborhood Day of the season. Catamarans are running round-trip from Juneau to Icy Strait Point for the event. We look forward to welcoming each of you to our home.

      Please keep your ideas coming. Our community is listening. At Icy Strait Point, it’s our openness, and the dedication of our entire team are the reasons our community rates highly with our worldwide guests.

    • You make valid points. I’m curious if Gruening spoke to anyone other than Russell Dick, “substantial dividends to shareholders”.

  • Hmm. Have to agree with Paul’s statement. Not sure where writer got that ” substantial dividends to shareholders. ” The other item of concern are the tourists who walk through town and walk up stairs/steps of people’s home and look in the windows!!! Doesn’t matter there are ” No trespassing ” signs in their property!

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